Carpenter Ants

Carpenter Ants are a problem to humans because of their habit of nesting in houses. They do not eat wood, but they remove quantities of it to expand their nesting facilities. This can result in damage to buildings and, if the main structural beams are hollowed out, can result in an unsafe condition.


Carpenter Ant Damage
Most Carpenter Ant species establish their initial nest in decayed wood, but, once established, the ants extend their tunneling into sound wood and can do considerable damage to a structure. However, this damage occurs over 3 or more years since the initial colony consists of a single queen. Workers are produced at a slow rate, so that a colony consisting of 200 to 300 workers is at least 2 to 4 years old.


Carpenter Ant Life Stages

Most problems in Washington caused by Carpenter Ants are due to Camponotus modoc. This species commonly nests in standing trees (living or dead), in stumps, or in logs on the forest floor. Since many houses are being built in forested areas, well established, vigorous colonies are readily available in the immediate vicinity to attack these dwellings. This is especially true when the homeowner insists that the home be built with a minimal removal of trees.


Carpenter Ant In Crawl Spaces

 

Nest Location Within Structures

Porch pillars

Studs

Support timbers

Insulation

Window framing and sills

Drawers of dressers
and cabinets

Roofs

Behind books

Shingles

In hollow doors

Siding

Under floors

Girders

Attic spaces

Joists

Buried wood, stumps or
construction debris

Casings of houses, garages and
other buildings

 

Carpenter Ants in Trees

 

Nest Location Outside Structures
(Natural Areas or Landscape)

Forest (within 50 meters)

27%

Live trees (excavate heartwood; enter by knotholes, wounds, etc.)

17%

Dead trees, stumps or logs, buried wood

16%

Wood debris

8%

Decorative wood in landscape

7%

Stacked lumber

3%

Firewood

3%

 


Number of Colonies

Carpenter Ants typically have a parent colony in outside nesting areas, such as live or dead trees, stumps, logs or decorative landscape wood.

When the colony grows larger and needs room to expand or the old nest becomes less suitable, they expand to form satellite colonies. These satellite colonies are placed in nearby structures presumably because the heated, protective structures are more conducive for the older stages.

The parent colony contains the queen, young larvae and workers, while the satellite contains the mature larvae, pupae, workers, and/or winged reproductives.

The ants move back and forth from parent nest to satellite nest to feeding areas (in nearby evergreen trees and shrubs such as Douglas fir, true fir and cedar). Sometimes they can be seen carrying mature larvae (white and grub-like) or pupae (papery cocoons).

Ants are generally active along ant trails in western Washington from April to mid-October.

The ants usually maintain a trail between the parent and satellite colonies. These trails follow natural contours and lines of least resistance and also frequently cut across lawns. The trails are about 2 cm. wide, and the ants keep them clean of vegetation and debris. Traffic on these trails may be noticeable during the day, but peak traffic occurs after sunset and continues throughout the night, sharply decreasing before sunrise.

The parent colony is often located in a tree, stump, or in stacked wood within 100 meters of the house. Wood and stumps buried in the yard when the house was constructed or numerous stumps and decorative wood pieces brought in to enhance the beauty of a yard or driveway may also be the source of a parent colony. The colony does not produce reproductives (winged males and queens) until it is from 3 to 6 years old and contains about 2,000 workers. The natural food for these ants consists of insects and other anthropods and sweet exudates from aphids and insects. They are also attracted to other sweet materials such as decaying fruits.

Carpenter Ant Life Cycle

Reproductive ants (winded males and females) leave the nest anytime from early January through June (different colonies leaving at different times). Mating takes place in swarms noted in May (others in June, July, August and September).

Mated queens find a suitable place to live and chew off their wings, excavate a small home and begin laying eggs. Mated queens lay eggs which become workers or queens. Unmated queens or queens which have run out of sperm can produce only males.

By the end of summer either workers have emerged or the larvae from late eggs become dormant. No feeding occurs during the winter months (November, December, January).

The dormant phase ends about mid-January, when the queen begins laying eggs again.


Carpenter Ant Prevention

The structure should be properly ventilated, especially in crawl spaces and attic areas. Moisture that accumulates in poorly ventilated areas contributes to the growth of wood-decay fungi and makes an ideal habitat for establishing a Carpenter Ant colony. Moisture may also be a problem if wood should rest on cement Soil should be kept away from wooden frames around doors and windows and from exterior siding. Vapor barriers in crawl spaces are strongly encouraged.

Vegetation, particularly evergreens, should be planted and pruned so they are not in contact with the structure. This eliminates a foraging area for the colony as well as easy access to the structure.

Homeowners may also wish to check the electrical and water lines entering the house. These frequently provide a ready access to the house by the ants. Plugging the gaps with a plastic caulking material will deter entry by the ants.

Decorative bark, stumps, and driftwood brought into the yard for aesthetic effects frequently harbor colonies of Carpenter Ants or are a convenient site for colony establishment. This is also true of firewood piled against the house. This is a poor practice and the wood should be stacked elsewhere.



Carpenter Ant

The first step in control procedures is gaining an understanding of the characteristics and habits of the Carpenter Ant. Much research and studies have been recently documented right here in the Pacific Northwest giving us new and accurate information. After reading our "Carpenter Ant" information sheet you will be ready to understand control procedures.

Construction

Carpenter Ants are not picky when it comes to type of dwellings they will infest. They do not discriminate between size, shape, color, contents, not the material the dwelling is made of. Carpenter Ants readily infest and dwell in brick homes, A-frames, commercial buildings, log cabins, trailers, campers, mobile homes and the standard wood frame construction. Since Carpenter Ants are primarily "cavity" or "void" nesters, understanding types of construction is important in developing a control program. Many times, potential nesting sites are incapable of being treated. These areas include: vaulted ceilings, flat roofs, heavily insulated attics, subfloors, and voids where rigid insulation is used. In these cases, more emphasis is placed on treatment of surrounding areas with an increased number of periodic follow-ups to ensure there has not been a breakdown in the chemical barrier applied.

Inspection

Most calls we receive from homeowners is that they are seeing live ants in specific areas of the home. Sometimes a chewing/ticking/scratching noise can be heard in ceilings, or walls or even sightings of sawdust frass coming from open beam ceilings. All this evidence is most likely from an active "satellite colony" which developed from the outside main nest. Therefore an attempt should be made to locate outside trailing and nesting sires so that these areas may be treated as well. However, time of day, weather conditions and even property lines often create problems which we cannot control when trying to find an exterior nest. If this is the case it may take longer in achieving immediate complete control. A careful examination of attic, crawl space, ceiling, foundation and immediate perimeter is necessary for our technician to develop a specific control program to meet the need of your individual home. The design of the home and the environment it sits in is a major issue in any control program.

Insecticides

Insecticides are developed in many formulations to be applied in specific areas for specific insects. Insecticides are applied as dust/powders, liquids, granules or foggers/aerosols. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Dusts tend to last longer in protected areas but do not do well in damp, wet, or humid environments. Liquids (microencapsulated, emulsifiable concentrates, wettable powders) tend to hold up better in adverse environmental conditions, but break down quickly between the 30-60 day period. Granules work well in direct nest applications but become ineffective after ground exposure and can be tracked in by people or pets. Pets also tend to get these granules caught in their paws and ingest them as they clean themselves. Fogging works well when flushing action is needed to move ants out of voids but cannot be solely relied upon since the active ingredient in all foggers or aerosols is a contact insecticide only. This means once the fog is gone so is the effectiveness. Long term chlorinated hydrocarbon pesticides such as chlordane have been banned for several years. Today's products have undergone extensive test studies to ensure protection to the homeowner and pest control applicator when properly applied. Today’s products are less odorous, safer to handle, break down much quicker and cost a whole lot more! If you have any questions, we would be happy to provide you with label information and safety data sheets for each product we would use in your home.

Application

Since many homes are different in design and construction not all treatments will be exactly the same. The beginning of a Carpenter Ant treatment involves an initial treatment that includes the entire home and surrounding areas. After the initial treatment a set number of periodic follow-ups will be performed. (Number of periodic follow-ups will be based upon type of construction). Listed below are sites of application and methods used to deliver the product.

Control in Attic Spaces

1. Attic

Attics are most often treated with an electronic dusting machine. If stored articles are kept in the attic a spot dusting, spraying or fogging will be performed. This will ensure nests and trails are eliminated from upper areas most often used by Carpenter Ants.

Control in Crawl Spaces

2. Crawl Spaces

All homes with crawl spaces would be sub-structurally sprayed with a liquid formulation by power spraying equipment. This ensures proper penetration to rim/sill areas most often encountered in Carpenter Ant infestations. Active infestation sites that are producing frass may be treated with a crack and crevice application for direct nest penetration. Homes that have insulated crawl spaces may be fogged in order to flush ants from between floor and sub-floor insulation. If this is the case, you may notice that exterior foundation vent openings have been covered with paper and should be opened once you return.

Treatment of Walls

3. Exterior Wall Voids

All lower story double-wall constructed wall voids will be drilled and injected. The size of the drill bit is 5/32" and is placed in the most inconspicuous area without affecting the treatment. The insecticide used may be of dust or liquid formulation depending upon the circumstances. Upper story levels, cantilevered overhangs, overhead porch voids and the like are all treated on a case by case basis.

Treatment of Interior Areas

4. Interior

Most all interior application is limited to crack and crevice treatment. In fact, there is very little amount placed inside the home at all. Crack and crevice treatment may involve treating around plumbing underneath sinks, dishwasher and washing machine. If your home has "open beam" ceilings, a crack and crevice treatment may need to be performed to the cracks of the exposed wooden members.

 
 


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